The Tale of Three Cities

Conceptually, Osaka and San Francisco feel quite similar. Both are coastal cities neighboring the Pacific Ocean and key parts of larger, polycentric metropolitan areas, bound by strong economic and cultural ties. In the case of the San Francisco Bay Area, the other two major centers are Oakland and San Jose.

During my stay in Osaka, I made several trips outside the city, partly as a way to escape its growing familiarity. Traveling this way provides a reprieve from an environment one has become too accustomed to; it was a habit I developed when I lived in San Francisco.

The trips within the Bay Area, however, were cumbersome, to say the least. I once took a trip to Sausalito, a small town on the other side of the San Francisco Bay. It was a spontaneous decision, and I paid a heavy price for my lack of planning. The trip began with a 30-minute bus ride, which took me to a train station. From there, I had to catch an infrequent train to the end of the Embarcadero Line; on weekends, the reduced commuter traffic meant that service was even more scarce. The ferry pier was another 15-minute walk from the station exit, and even then, the ferry only arrived every two or three hours. Even having arrived at Sausalito, one must also keep a close watch on the time, as service stops shortly after sunset.

While Sausalito’s limited public transportation might be excused by its small size, the service to and from a major nearby city like Oakland was equally unforgivable. The lack of a comprehensive railway network, aside from a few sporadic BART terminals, meant that traveling anywhere beyond walking distance from those stations was a hassle. Bus service was spotty and inconsistent at best. Without a car, it is extremely difficult to enjoy barely anything the Bay Area purports to offer.

Where the Bay Area emphasizes symbolic unity but delivers fragmented mobility, Kansai downplays formal unity but achieves it through the rails. The three major cities of the Kansai region—Osaka, Kobe, and Kyoto—are seamlessly interconnected. A traveler can board a train at their nearest station, make one or two simple transfers, and be efficiently delivered to their destination. There is an incredible amount of thoughtful design behind this system. From the central hub of Osaka-Umeda Station, Kobe is just a 45-minute train ride away, a route serviced by companies such as Hanshin and JR West. Heading east toward Kyoto, the Hankyu Line offers through-service with the Osaka Metro, meaning a transfer at Umeda isn’t even necessary. Furthermore, all transfers within Umeda Station can be completed via a network of underground walkways that double as bustling shopping malls. As I grew acquainted with this system, I couldn’t help but marvel at the careful urban planning that was done for this to happen.

The convenience afforded the constant exchanges between the three cities and its people even late at night. When I arrived at Kobe-Sannomiya Station at 10:30 pm, I was struck by the sheer number of people still bustling through the halls. These weren’t just office workers on their final commute home; the crowd was a vibrant mix, with some wearing World Rugby jerseys and others decked out in K-pop idol merchandise. Apparently they were just returning from events that took place in the vicinity. The liveliness of Kobe pulsed throughout the station even when the day was drawing to a close.

My initial reaction was a mix of shock and confusion, colored by my experiences in San Francisco, where using public transit at night is most often a struggle. The service could be sporadic, and there is no guarantee one could reach their destination on time. How come they are not afraid of being stranded? I wondered while fumbling my way to the platform. Then, it came to my mind that I realized the reliable links between the three cities are something they grew up with. Even as early as the 1900s, the Hanshin Line has been in operation. It left me with wonder how railroad and the accompanying urban development has shaped the triplet cities and their people.